Surfing may be important to the Tahitians, but what’s more important is the health of the ocean and its lifeforms.
No one knows this hierarchy better than Raimana Van Bastolaer, Tahitian surfer and defacto mayor of Teahupoo. He grew up in Tahiti and tells the story of his home break, Teahupoo.
“For Tahitians, the ocean represents food first, and then the second thing is watersports,” says Van Bastolaer. “The most important thing for us is that we have to take care of the ocean.”
Van Bastolaer was among the first to surf Teahupoo, and has been on the forefront of developing new ways to ride the dangerous beauty ever since. Teahupoo is known for the dangerous reef that lies below it, along with the power the wave commands. Van Bastolaer sums up the journey perfectly: “With one wave, you can be a hero.”
More from ‘World of Adventure’