History was made in the Himalayas during the past week as three mountaineers became the first to summit Mt. Everest and neighboring Mt. Lhotse during the same day.In fact, Alpine Ascents International expedition members Garrett Madison, Tom Halliday and Michael Horst, all of whom climbed the 27,940-foot Lhotse from the South Col of Everest after attaining Everest's summit, are the first climbers to stand atop two 8,000-meter peaks within a 24-hour period.
This might rank as the most notable achievement during what has become a circus-like season on the world's tallest mountain (Everest stands at 29,035 feet), which has played host recently not only to climbers but skiers, paragliders, and even a 30-year-old Nepali guru who meditated on top of the world for 27 hours in support of world peace.
The Alpine Ascent climbers were in transit and unavailable for comment, according to a spokesman at the Seattle-based office. But renowned mountaineer Ed Viesturs, in a recent interview, talked about why an Everest-Lhotse same-day ascent had been so elusive.
"The key factor is the physical endurance," he said. "I've pulled of a few doubles in my career [on other mountains], and everything has to fall into place -- health, endurance, perfect conditions, etc. Take it one climb a time and see how it goes."
Among the more visible mountaineers on Everest were Chris Davenport, Neal Beidleman and Ephi Gildor. That's because Davenport and Beidleman brought skis.
They made tracks on Everest's upper slopes during the acclimation period, when climbers ascend and descend from camp to camp to let their bodies become accustomed to high altitude.Their most memorable run was carving symmetrical turns down Everest's Lhotse Face -- which has been done only a few times -- as nearby climbers watched in amazement.
"Especially the Sherpas," Davenport said, when reached via phone Monday night in Kathmandu. "They were just out of their minds, cheering us on. We kind of became known as the skiers ... who skied the Lhotse Face."
It was Davenport's fourth trip to the Himalayas but his first time climbing Everest. Because the mountain is so busy and has been climbed so many times, he had never expressed a strong desire to make the climb.
But standing on the world's highest peak changed his perspective. "I have a very intense feeling of personal satisfaction right now that we did that," he said. "I'm kind of walking around in a little bit of a daze, like, 'Oh my God, I just climbed Everest. Wow, OK, that's really cool.' "
Davenport's primary responsibility was serving as guide for Gildor, who is attempting to bag the Seven Summits, or the highest peak on each continent. (Gildor is pictured at lower right, standing on the summit of Everest on Friday morning.)
As every climber knows, an Everest expedition consists of the ascent and descent. Each is equally daunting and dangerous. But two locals locals on Saturday eliminated the ground-based descent by assembling a paraglider and launching from the summit.Babu Sunuwar and Lakpa Tershing Sherpa soared in what must have seemed like the heavens on a 42-minute flight that ended safely in the village of Namche Bazaar.
It's part of an ecologically-friendly adventure that also includes a kayaking and biking trip to Bangladesh.
Wrote Kraig Becker of Gadling.com: "I'm hoping that at some point we might see video footage though, as I'm sure the view was amazing. "I'm also guessing that there were more than a few climbers who were jealous of their method of descent after seeing them take off from the summit as well."
Then there was Bhakta Kumar Rai, a Nepalese who perhaps is better known as "Supreme Master Godangel" and founder of the sect, Heavenly Path. On Saturday he broke the record for longest stay on the top of Everest.
He camped there for 32 hours, 27 of which were spent meditating. Nepal's tourism ministry stated that Rai broke the previous record for longest stay by by more than 10 hours.
"He used oxygen only for 11 hours, Laxman Bhattari, spokesman for the ministry, is quoted by Mangalorean.com. "It is an incredible feat that breaks the record of the longest stay on Everest."
Asked if he saw Rai, Davenport said his group "walked right by him."
Because the summit of Everest is so small and has to accommodate so many climbers, Davenport added that Rai wasn't actually on the summit, but "about 50 yards down a ridge, camped next to a rock in a tent."
Rai's followers regard him as an angel delivered by God to bring about world peace and make other positive changes on earth.
-- Top image showing Alpine Ascent climbers nearing the summit of Everest is courtesy of Alpine Ascents. Second image shows Chris Davenport scouting a route to ski down between camps on Everest's upper slopes. Third image shows Aspen resident Ephi Gildor celebrating reaching the world's highest peak. Both images are courtesy of Chris Davenport
29 Comments
1-20 of 29
Posted by scholls04 May 24, 2011 05:51pm PDTReply | Report Abuse
What an amazing feat! Those three men should be very proud of themselves! I have the dream to one day climb an 8,0000 meter peak and know first-hand what an accomplishment it is to do so! Doing two in one 24-hour period of time is mind-boggling! Well done!!!
Reply by j_tx May 25, 2011 11:49am PDTReport Abuse
Oh, man, I was going to do that next week!! Now I guess I'll just have to watch TV...
Posted by zach duba May 24, 2011 06:59pm PDTReply | Report Abuse
wow thats really amazing and great job !!! my dream is to climb Mt. Everest too
Posted by zach duba May 24, 2011 07:00pm PDTReply | Report Abuse
plus 2 peaks in 24 hours time is amazing it seems imposible but these 3 men have dont the imposible !! great job
Posted by beethoven79 May 24, 2011 09:58pm PDTReply | Report Abuse
Amazing! The best I ever did, was hiking up to the ANNAPURNA BASE CAMP. It took me 7 days to get up there.
Posted by jackpratt01 May 24, 2011 10:03pm PDTReply | Report Abuse
I believe this is correct. I also believe this is the kind of plan that we are likley to end up with, though somewhat less generous as it will be forced on us by our creditors who won't give a hair about healthcare for seniors and the needy. Read "Penny Health Insurance" articles if you dont have insurance.
Posted by mihaly rhedey bethlen May 24, 2011 11:01pm PDTReply | Report Abuse
If I'm not mistaken, the famous climber, Rhinehold MESSNER, climbed all eight 8000 meter peaks, in 24 hours and he did it without oxygen and solo! And that was at least 15 years ago...but now that I wrote this, I'm going to google it and see if I'm correct. I think I am.
Reply by greg petliski May 25, 2011 07:11am PDTReport Abuse
Hahahaha, he did climb all 8,000 meter peaks but NOT in 24 hours lololol. For christs sake K2 is about 1,000 miles from Everest.
Reply by joey billip May 25, 2011 07:29am PDTReport Abuse
He was the first to climb all 14 8,000 meter peaks and it took him 16 years to complete. Not 24 hours He was the first to climb without oxygen and solo.
Reply by chris densor May 25, 2011 01:24pm PDTReport Abuse
Not to mention there's 14 of them...not 8
Posted by mary ann leverence May 25, 2011 09:19am PDTReply | Report Abuse
I have a hard time climbing stairs, much less a mountain!!! Kudos to them all--not everyone can achieve their dreams, so nice to find some that did.
Posted by ivan78 May 25, 2011 09:42am PDTReply | Report Abuse
Actually this story is partially correct. Four dominicans as well climbed Mount Everest this month their names were Ivan Gomes, Karim Mella, Federico Jovine, Juvenal Brenes as well
Posted by basement brat May 25, 2011 01:29pm PDTReply | Report Abuse
Cool. Now if you'll excuse me, I'm gonna climb to the top of my bunk bed in my mom's basement, and read a Thor comic book. But, that's after I go in the kitchen and fix myself a bologna sandwich and a glass of milk.
Posted by gasbreakdip707 May 25, 2011 04:10pm PDTReply | Report Abuse
2 peaks pretty good, but three now thats an amazing
Posted by chitos May 25, 2011 04:20pm PDTReply | Report Abuse
NO! I BEG to differ! going all out on not one ?not two? but three? peaks is totally amazing? but to not? see any YETIS while risking you lives? "get your BUTTS down all ready.
Posted by chitos May 25, 2011 04:20pm PDTReply | Report Abuse
NO! I BEG to differ! going all out on not one ?not two? but three? peaks is totally amazing? but to not? see any YETIS while risking you lives? "get your BUTTS down all ready.
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Posted by gary s May 26, 2011 03:49am PDTReply | Report Abuse
This is nothing more than a pissing contest for men who've never grown up and have much, much more money than brains. And as for achieving "world peace" by sitting on the top of Everest........yeah, good luck with that.
Reply by craig casimir May 26, 2011 08:05am PDTReport Abuse
It's called pushing yourself to new limits, doing something that hasn't been done. This is what make the human spirit stronger, so why don't you push yourself, for starters grab the back of your neck and pull real hard, when you hear a loud pop that'll be the sound of your head escaping from your a$$! Have a nice day, and stop pissing on someones accomplishments when you don't have any yourself.
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