Posted by bsolly September 22, 2010 11:07am PDTReply | Report Abuse

I've done both, you are a compete idiot. It's not even close. At 45 years old I'd rather strap on a helmet and get hit by ray lewis than get pitch on dry reef on a 20 foot day at Pipe or Chops> you just have no idea. In all the world of football, nobody really dies. Several pros have died surfing not to mention top ams. Just for fun, try and paddle out on any hawaii North shore beach Dec-March, good luck!