I am J.O.J.
For those of you who don’t know what that means, it’s an acronym for “just off the jet. Folks who are J.O.J. have white feet, are a bit pasty, and generally stick out from among those who either live here or have been around for a couple weeks.
That’s cool though, I’ll be bronzing for weeks.
Pipe was about eight foot Monday and pretty nasty. Reef McIntosh smashed his kneecap on the reef and removed a good chunk of it. Mark Healey cut his hand, but was able to fight the pain off and have a couple beers with me, Santa Cruzer Anthony Tashnick, Darren Crawford and some bros.
The best waves I saw ridden at Pipe were by Bruce Irons, Takayuki Wakita, and the ageless Derek Ho. Wakita’s wave was probably the bestâ€”a heaving eight footer that he drove straight through amidst flashes and cheers from the beach. On the next wave, he ate it and broke his board, and on the beach, we both agreed that he should have gone in after the good one. Wakita rips.
I finally got to surf Tuesday at Pipe and Ehukai beachpark. Pipe was pretty small but a good warm-up for things to come. Over at Gums, Liam McNamara was pushing his nine-year-old son, Makai, into waves along with Ivan and Nathan Florence and some other ripping rats. The talent level of kids over here is unbelievable and unlike anywhere I’ve been. Liam is a super cool dad and helps out all the neighborhood kids, he’s a good man.
Saw Kai “Borg Garcia on the bikepath in front of the Volcom house today and he greeted me with a bellowing “Cote! What? Beach park? Kai is a good guy to have on your side, ask Andy or Bruce, and they’ll tell you the same.
A North/Northwest swell is predicted for Thursday and Friday, and the Sunset event should be held those days. Stay tuned right here for up to the minute breaking news, barrels of the day, photos of hot girls hanging around, wipeouts, scraps, and anything else that happens on the seven mile miracle (more specifically Pipe and Off-The-Wall–that’s where the shit goes down!).