Crazy doesn’t even begin to describe how I feel about today. I woke up super early this morning but instead of sitting on my ass until the boys woke up I decided to go for a run. As excited as I was about running, my run somehow turned out to be more of a power walk. To be honest with you I think it’s all this bread we’ve been eating. Couple that with my Mexican genes telling my body it’s destined to be short and round and I’m done with. When I got back from my run/power walk, Damo had just returned from the end of the road and told everyone that the contest was off. The news didn’t put a frown on anyone’s face though, because even though the contest was off, the boys had heard that there were waves to be had. Kieren Perrow was the first to take a boat out to Chopes. I was kind of eager to go to Chopes as well, but Bobby told me to chill out and we’d get waves later in the day. I was sitting on the deck wondering if we’d ever go surf when Bobby yells out, “Dude, did you see that? There’s a full on wave out there! Look at the left! Get your shit, we’re going.” We packed our stuff up and made it out to the reef in front of our house called “Bad Pass” to arrive at a head high left that stretched for about 20 yards. Being a goofy foot this wave had me stoked out of my mind. Picture this. It’s you and your best friend sitting in emerald green water with consistent head high waves coming your way. I knew it was too good to be true, so when two old SUPs showed up I didn’t get to bothered. I think the SUPs saw the homie Jonesy taking photos and realized we were doing our own thing because after paddling around for about 15minutes they took off. I mean either that or paddling up to two tattooed Mexicans wasn’t their cup of tea. I don’t find us too threatening but I realize it’s scary for some people, just look at Arizona.
After one of the best surf sessions I’ve ever had, we went back to the house and Bobby went next door to hit the heavy bag. I was pretty drained so instead of boxing I hung out With Nate Yeomans and the Gudauskas brothers. As we were hanging out we came to the realization that none of us knew how to crack a coconut so we decided we would give it a go. We cracked the coconuts drank the juice and proceeded to hang out at the dinning table when Simpo, Damo and a few others pulled up on a boat telling stories of how good Teahupoo was. The stories the boys were telling were pretty far fetched so rather then go for surf, we interrogated the boys to see if they were telling the truth or blowing smoke up our asses. I though it was funny as hell as the boys all tried to get their stories to coincide but I guess we grilled the boys pretty hard because after of about 15 minutes of taking shit Simpo jokingly said, “Dude, I’ve never heard anyone take so much crap for having a good surf session.”
Unsure whether the boys were telling the truth or not The Gudangs, CJ, Yeomans, Bobby and I took the boat out to Chopes to have a look for ourselves. Though the waves weren’t as good as the boys were claiming, everyone paddled out in the oh so crowded line-up. Though were I’m from crowded line-ups are usually filled with a bunch of agro dudes, this line-up was filled with a bunch of guys joking around pushing each other to charge any and every wave. Besides the guys from our house the line-up held the likes of Roy Powers, Dusty Payne, Freddy P, and Kekoa Balcaso. After watching the boys catch a few drainers a wave finally came my way and I got a small taste of what the crystal blue chandelier looks like as the water sprays over your head. Yeoman’s claimed to have my wave on film but when we were watching the video before dinner the clip was nowhere to be found.
Today was pretty much the shit dreams are made of. I got to hang out with my best friend catch some of the best waves of my life and hang out with some chill ass people. After dinner Bobby dragged my ass over to Jonesy’s bungalow to take a look at the photos he took of us as we surfed that left-hand reef break. I don’t think I need to say it, but at this point in my day I was on cloud nine.
Tomorrow looks like it’s going to be another good day. It looks like there’s going to be more little waves and the boys are all stoking on the Toney vs Couture fight. As far as the contest goes, we talked to some guys earlier today and it seems the contest may not run until Monday or Tuesday. If the contest is held back until then it would seem that the event organizers would have a very small window to run the contest, unless they extended the waiting period. Either way whatever happens is very concerning to a lot of surfers on this island because the cut-off from 45 to 32 surfers is supposed to happen immediately after this event, but with no surf in sight questions like what happens if they have to cancel the comp are brought to mind? Would the ASP extend the waiting period or extend the cutoff until trestles? Would they cancel the cutoff all together and run the 2010 year just like years past? These are questions to keep in mind as you stay tuned to the Billabong pro Tahiti 2010. As for me I’m going to let the world’s best worry about that and enjoy this amazing day by finishing this 32oz cold one and going to bed.—Manny Raya