By Matt Griggs
In Surfers, Matt Griggs frames the unique perspectives of the most influential surfers and surf photographers in the history of the sport. Told by an ex-pro turned writer, the stories offer a look from inside the professional surfing world most of us can only dream about. Through dozens of interviews, Griggs allows these surfing giants to share their own experiences in their own words (except for Kelly Slater—who denied an interview, and the mysterious Camel—who was simply beyond reach).
Their stories range from professional to personal, taking us through accomplishments met, obstacles overcome (cancer, sexism, the loss of loved ones), and visions of the future. Surfers spans decades and oceans to include such monumental names as C.J. Hobgood, Peter Troy, Occy, and Taj Burrow. Some share their spiritual connection with the ocean, while others explain their innate ability to sleep with tons of hot chicks. There is truly something for everyone.—David Small
Taj Burrow’s Book Of Hot Surfing
Edited by Sam McIntosh
Any questions you could possibly have about surfing are answered in this 173-page masterpiece. Need to know how to strap your board to the roof of your ride? How to do a backside air reverse? How to pick up on chicks? Wax your board? Even for someone like me who thinks they rip, there is a ton of information to be absorbed and applied to daily surfing experience. Taj and his famed Australian journalist cohorts Sam McIntosh and Derek Rielly have created a comprehensive beginner to expert book on surfing, a must-have for any surfer. Get this book.–J.C.