Coconut Wireless: This Is What It Looks Like To Be Caught Inside On A 40-Foot Wave
If you've ever seen the movie North Shore, you'd remember Turtle saying: "When the waves are big, no one works!" It's one of my favorite quotes, and it holds true to me, and most of the one-million people who populate the island of Oahu. We've had over a week of hype leading up to these past two days of huge surf, and the swell definitely materialized, along with an island-wide following of spectators.
Beachfront property owners were hoping for the best while preparing for the worst. Our yard at Rocky Point was lined with a wall of sandbags and a boarded down front porch. Other people just kept their front and back doors open, so that a wave of water could just cascade right through their house. Our humble Rocky Rights abode wasn't damaged, while other locations weren't so lucky.
The hard onshore North winds followed the huge swell in on the first day, so eight of my friends and I made the mission out to the West side for a "big board day" at Makaha. The conditions were epic with light offshore winds and nice groomed 12-15 foot walls. After a long day of party waves and having a ball, half of my friends drove back to the North Shore to sit in big-wave induced traffic for four hours, starting in the middle of the island in Mililani. The other half of us went to the infamous strip bar Femme Nu for a couple beers before taking the long way home along the Eastside. You decide what would be a better "cherry on the cake" for that day!
The next day presented itself with light trade winds and huge surf. Justin Lambert and I took the ski out and scored Phantoms with a minimal crowd, and solid 25 foot sets. I had no idea that Phantoms could hold that big, but somehow everything was coming together perfectly. After towing for the majority of the day, we were running low on gas, so we decided to roust Rob Machado and Pat O'Connel, film a couple waves with our waterproof camera, watch the Eddie from the channel, and call it a day. Enjoy the footage…—Flynn Novak on the Coconut Wireless