Weight: 140 lbs.
From: San Clemente, California
Sponsors: Op, Astrodeck, Kaysen Surfboards, Ocean Minded, Sector 9
Cantaloupe-colored afternoon light is sifted through the translucent-orange sarong mounted over one of Rusty Long’s windows that look out on the world. Rusty’s room tells his story. Celtic studies books lay on his bed-he believes in educating himself and plans to further his education upon transfer from community college to a university. Pink Floyd filters out of the stereo that lies on the floor. An assortment of discs ranging from Led Zeppelin and Bob Marley to zen meditation music lie nearby. Rusty’s room is full of plants, and surrounding his parents’ eucalyptus-shaded home, Rusty has planted hundreds of specimens ranging from driftwood-sized zucchinis to moisture-filled exotic succulents. The walls of Rusty’s room are sparsely populated with posters and maps. The waves found on the posters are the substance of Rusty’s dreams-waves normal people have no desire to surf, waves that easily inflict mental and physical wounds. Rusty finds joy in the lunacy, and with each uncanny barrel at Puerto Escondido, blind drop at Todos, or broken board at an urchin-infested slab reef, Rusty’s dreams of health and a desire to live for the moment have become real.-Tim Dowell