What are you happy about right now?
Is it on?
Yeah, it’s on.
Okay. Should I put my pants back on.
Yeah. What are the things that make you happy right now You’ve accomplished a lot these past years.
The thing that makes me happy right now is the fact that I’m not looking for happiness anymore. I think I’ve tried just about everything and I think that just waking up everyday and not freaking out on what’s gonna happen, or what might happen, or what I’m gonna try to do-it’s just knowing that I’m lucky enough to have another day. Not judging every single thing that happens to me or every single thing that happens in front of me. I’m still ambitious, I still have a lot of dreams and goals. It’s not this big search to find what’s gonna make everything perfect. Having that realization has been great for me.
Between all your successes and failures, what’s been the highest and what’s the lowest?
The biggest success that I’ve had is realizing that having notoriety or being financially well off are just freedom, that friendship and family and peace of mind is what we’re really after. If we had that, then we’d be okay. The biggest failure is over the years at certain times losing touch with friends and family and reality. Having your head up your ass thinking you can get away with more because your there’s a picture of you on the newsstand. I think having money and notoriety poured all over you as a kid, it’s really easy to get on the wrong track. My biggest successes and my biggest defeats are all kind of wrapped up into one.
[IMAGE 2]Who’s helped you discover that fame and all that stuff isn’t what you want or isn’t necessary in life?
Has it been people or did you just figure that out yourself? Do you see it through your friends? I’ve learned it from everybody I’m in contact with. You feel it. You feel when you start looking to people you don’t really know to make you happy. They only know you for what they see or read and you start shunning the people who really know you and spending more time with people who know you on a certain level and you keep them on that level. That’s when you know you need a wakeup call. What was that question again?
I think it was, did someone help you discover that?
Oh yeah, everybody helps you in a way to realize where you are and what your worth. I guess. I think a lot of music sets you on the right track. Listen to recurring themes in music and in a small way you can identify with the musicians who are crying their guts out in their lyrics and you start realizing that some of those things are in your life.
Are you all healed up?
Yeah, my knee is like I swear I could jump off a roof. I do trip sometimes. Basically, I’m not afraid of anything, still I have to make that deduction in my head, think about it, “yeah, I’m not afraid, but I don’t it to hurt my leg if it’s another eight months off.” I sometimes have to weigh it out and go, “You know what, screw it, I don’t have to prove to anybody anything. I’m gonna wait. I’m gonna get a good wave rather than every wave.” I just consider myself lucky like it took eight years of sacrifice in my body to get seriously injured and I looked at the whole thing as just I’m lucky I didn’t fall. I’m better. I’m really out of place right now from surfing Teahupoo. My lower back’s all jacked up, but I surfed this morning.