Well, day three of the Boost Mobile Pro presented by Quiksilver pretty much ruled everyone who had the chance to get a parking spot and witness some of the action. Very, hot, very sunny, and very inconsistent wave-wise. When they did come in, Lowers would showcase it’s playful face—a long right or left ramp that the WCT ripped to pieces.
Early third-round losses included Occy to Victor Ribas , Mick Campbell to Paulo Moura, and Shea Lopez in a close one to Richie Lovett. Every time Occy loses the whole beach cries.
Anyway, Joel Parkinson took on a sort of “air duel with Shane Beschen and barely won, Egan beat Shane Dorian, and Taylor Knox took out Armando Daltro. In a nail biter with seconds left, Kelly Slater found a last second wave that the generous judges felt was enough to get by Luke Stedman in the last seconds.
The heat of the day had to be brother versus brother—Andy versus Bruce. The most anticipated match in the contest and probably this year. Although Andy began the heat with a heat throwing tailslide followed by a lip bash on a set wave for a score of 9.17, the ocean went dead. Bruce matched him with beautiful arcs combined with lip smacks and two scores of 7.83 and 7.67. And then nothing came in. All Andy could do was make the most of a last-minute, medium-sized right and get a score of six—not enough. Trying to hide his smile, Bruce came in and signed autographs and said the following when asked about the score his brother needed, “I knew he could get that with no problem. There was fifteen minutes and the waves went flat. He got the wave in the last second—I thought he might have got the score ’cause I could only see it from the back. I guess the judges didn’t see it that way so I’m stoked. I thought I lost. The trickiest part about the situation was that everyone was under the assumption Bruce would give it away to help his brother who’s currently in a head-to-head world title race with Kelly Slater—guess not. Even if Kelly wins, Andy would still retain the lead by nearly 100 po
Another guy to squeak through today was Pat O’Connell. Against Trent Munro, he was in control a majority, in fact, the entire heat and nearly lost when he gave a last wave away to Trent in the last minute. Pat’s a great interview and a great guy. Oh yeah, for complete results, scores, and photos, check the Boost Mobile Pro/ASP website at: aspworldtour.com.
This is kind of a shitty question, but do you think your surfing get better the older you get?
Yeah, that’s a great question because I do think it gets better. It totally depends on your attitude. If you feel old, dude, you’re gonna surf old. But if you want to be good, if you enjoy what you love and what you do I would think you get better because you just get smarter. As time goes by your experiences change who you are and if you use those experiences as learning experiences and build on them rather than let them break you down—the skies the limit. Kelly Slater’s surfing better now than he ever did. The level has changed—it’s come closer, but it’s not because of age. What happens is that a guy like Andy and all these guys, he learned from Kelly. Those guys grew up watching Kelly go backwards and doing tailslide 360s and stuff. Kelly learned from Tom Curren—those guys didn’t do any of that stuff. It’s a natural progression, but I don’t think it’s age in the sense that he’s too old to do it. He just grew up in a little bit different time. I mean, the kids now, like you saw at the Nationals—the kids are doing the same stuff. So essentially, no, I think you get better as you get older, I just don’t think that everybody gets better—it’s all about gratitude.
How important is the Trestles event to you? It’s your home turf and stuff, but do you ever put the pressure on yourself? Or do you try not to think about it?
I put pressure on myself all the time. It’s really important. I trry to look at it like just another event. I look the way the tour is set up and there’s a lot of big barrels. I’ve learned to do quite well at Teapuhoo now, but it’s not something that comes really naturally to me. These are the waves that come naturally to me. I do well on the Gold Coast—I’ve had my best results there. I do well in waves like this. So I try not to put too much pressure on myself, but I definitely do try to tell myself this is a chance. What I will say is that when I’m surfing out there all I’m really trying to do is win. I went out earlier in the contest against Bruce and Kelly and I wanted to surf circles around everybody because I felt like I’ve been surfing good but I surfed like a jackass and I thought ‘Well, that’s just not me.’ That’s what you do when you’re a kid, you go out there and try to do rad tricks and fall off all the time. Look at Andy—a perfect example. When he first got on tour for the first time, he was the easiest draw on tour. He just made so many mistakes—he would just ride waves on the inside and do cool tricks, but at the end of the day he’d smash him. But as you get older and more mature you figure out ways of doing it. Me, right now, even though I’m not surfing at the level I want to be—that’s alright f-k it, I want to win. I’m gonna find a way to win this heat. My knee is so sore right now I can barely walk. I was out there going, “You know what, just get another wave—ride it out with about twenty seconds of pain. If you can put in a good move or two, you’re gonna get a good score, you’re right in the hunt, and then you can go sit and cry about it later.
Towards the end of your heat, Trent Munro got a long wave, but the score wasn’t good enough. What’s it like when you know a guy can get a mid to excellent score and you’re watching it go all the way in?
I wouldn’t say the worst feeling in the world—it’s not quite that bad, but it hurts. I was leading the entire time of the heat and to let it slip away like that…surfing is split-second decisions. Even just free surfing, “Should I go on this wave or not? That situation, his wave came in I knew he had a chance to get it and it looked foamy. It’s sort of an odd feeling—surfing. You’re putting numbers to something that doesn’t necessarily (require it)—how do you put a number on that? So your brain is actually working when you see this wave coming—you’re actually evaluating a score to a wave before it even comes. Right when you see it pop up, I see it and I go, “That’s five, that’s a six, that’s an eight.The wave that he caught didn’t look like it was a great wave although I know he’s great surfer, but I knew he’d have to do something special to get the score. When I turned around and I saw the fins flying out the back I thought I was done—I thought I blew it. I thought I made the mistake of the heat. And what’s so tough in these contests is if you make one mistake and you’re done. I thought that was my mistake. I was like, “Oh, that’s pretty tough—one mistake in a thirty minute heat with ten seconds to go and I’m out of the contest. Luckily I made the right choice because it was bumpy and foamy and he couldn’t really link a big move.