Dead Leaves On The Dirty Ground By Peter Taras
” I can feel the winter coming,”–Tim Kasher of Cursive told me this once. Its evidence was all around this morning. Sunshine, liquid Gold. I had almost forgot what it was like to wake up to its brilliance. For the last 6 months, our sourpuss cousin named fog has hugged our coastline, keeping us sleeping in late and in a state of complete lethargy. But with fall comes a sense of urgency to wake up early and get some beautiful offshore dawn-patrol sessions.
Tuesday morning, Sept 20th 2004. Oceanside Ca produced one of the best days I have ever seen in California. The first day of fall opened with a bang as 6-8 foot peaks drained down the beach making perfect silhouette stand up tube, after stand up tube. The swell caught most of Southern California off guard as it produced hands down the best day of surf for beachbreaks in So Cal this year. By noon word has spread of the swell and the buzz exploded through the halls of TransWorld opting me to propose this question?
What makes us Southern Californians hungrier to surf in the winter as opposed to the warm aired, warm watered summertime?
Why do we toss and turn sleeplessly in the winter, thinking about the morning session ahead, yet sleep so easily and nonchalant in the summer. Why do we constantly have surf on our mind as wintertime comes around? I noticed the change instantaneously here at TransWorld headquarters this morning. All summer not one word of surf stoke had been mumbled. Not one mention of a single standout session. But as people filled their cubicle spaces, the talk began. It was as if opening day had been announced for this sport of kings. People talked about Del Mar, the peaks in Oceanside, how good Newport was, etc…
I guess the reasoning for this mysterious effect is different for everyone. But for me it’s the simple fact that I live in San Diego. A majority of San Diego faces Northwest and picks up winter swells head on–as opposed to the summertime swells that miss a majority of San Diego. Also, there’s nothing like morning offshore winds, they freeze you as you change into your fullsuit, but reward you with ruler-line shaped peaks. The last major reason for me being an avid wintertime surfer is that the sun rises at 6:15 as apposed to 7:15. How can you sleep through that beautiful sunshine as it sneaks through the blinds of your bedroom window knowing that most mornings there’s going to be surf somewhere?
So with this said, embrace these cold mornings, these winds of the desert, the sunshine that will you’ll be dying to see next June, embrace it all and gear up for this winter, we’re off to a great start so far. Game on!