Whether it’s the life or death struggle between man and nature, the physical clashes between man and man, the constant interaction between man and woman, or the rampant rumors that fly across the beaches like mist—drama will always be part of the North Shore experience.
Drama follows the flock, especially when it’s a massive crowd of thrill seekers, party animals, playboy millionaires, beautiful woman, heavy locals, tagalongs, tourists, groupies, competitive professionals, jiu jitsu champs, perverted photographers, media, drunkards, angels, bible thumpers, and devils—all crammed into a seven-mile stretch.
Around every corner there’s a wave or human ready to smash your face in, there’s a chick ready to sleep with you or cry on your shoulder, there’s your best friends and your worst enemies, there’s loneliness and overcrowding, there’s the greatest parties you could ever imagine and moments of solitary beauty that can’t be found anywhere else in the world.
Hollywood has tried to tap into the reality of the North Shore but never quite captured it. A few guys getting slapped and some wipeouts can’t even come close to showing the whole picture. The only way an outsider could ever capture for themselves the true essence of the North Shore is to be in the mix—to be on the beach when Danny Fuller gets spit out of a Second Reef bomb, to hear the sound of a giant swell before dawn, to see the look of fear in a man’s face as he gets chased by a local, to dig your toes into the sand at dusk and breathe in the salty air, even get caught inside by a set anywhere on any size day, share drinks with Mick Fanning and Joel Parkinson at a party, talk to a nicely tanned, toned, and beautiful member of the opposite sex, call home and tell your friends about the waves you got that day—there are too many things to be experienced that can be put in a magazine.
Don’t go through your life without seeing it all just once. The time is now, the electricity is already sending shocks to the rest of the world—can you feel it?—C.C.
Caption: This situation is a metaphor for a possible outcome of your trip to the North Shore. You could be getting snaked and axed by a large wave, you could be getting tossed over the ledge like a leaf, or you could be watching in awe as the spectacle unfolds in front of you. Either way, you’ll never know, until you go. Mark Healy and friend. Photo: Bielmann