Rizal Tanjung wanders the isles of Foodland in search of fuel. His first-round Pipe trials heat is this afternoon, and he’s drawn about the toughest heat imaginable–Hawai‘ians Rocky Canon, Myles Padaca, and Kamalei Alexander. Come to think of it, there really isn’t any such thing as an easy heat in the Pipe Masters. Making it to the main event means two hours of surfing one of the world’s craziest waves against people who were born to surf it, and if Rizal doesn’t eat in between heats, he stands less of a chance. So he’s come to the store that has a monopoly on the North Shore grocery racket.

Located just around the corner from Waimea Bay and less than a mile from Pipe, Foodland and its attached Starbucks sit in the geographic and emotional center of the surf world. The market has sold food to every surfer you can name and a thousand you can’t. Surf photographers show up there in the morning to find out where pros are headed. Alcohol consumed at parties celebrating new world champs is purchased at Foodland. It’s notorious for long lines, overpriced food (especially if your money is converted from a less-valuable currency, like Rizal’s Indonesian rupiah), and excellent premade ahi poke. It’s a scene, and many refuse to shop there because of it, but somehow you just don’t feel like you’ve been to the North Shore until you’ve walked its aisles, thrown a couple shakas, and presented your Maka‘i discount card at the register.–Joel Patterson