We’ve had a lot going on already in August and for the past two weeks the waves have pumping, in particular Kandui Left! Here’s a quick excerpt from Ray’s August 5th surf report:
“It hasn’t been a very good season for the lefts this year. We just haven’t been getting the right winds combined with the right swells. Being a natural foot, that has been fine by me! But we have these darn goofyfoots over here that have been praying, chanting, sacrificing, and basically doing anything in their power to light up their favorite left. I pretty sure when Justice, our surf guide and ridiculously good videographer, saw a big southwest swell coming our way he begged the local medicine men to do a wind dance to make sure there was a light offshore breeze at his beloved Kandui’s on the biggest day. Whatever he did, it worked!
Justice has been waiting for months for that magic day at Kandui’s and he finally got it. The wind blew lightly offshore there all night and the conditions were pretty much perfect in the morning and didn’t change the entire day. The swell had a lot of west in it so the waves were fast and packed a punch! We didn’t think it was that big when we rolled up, but after a little time in the water we realized just how big it was. Sets were going double overhead +++! The tide was not that high so that made things even more interesting as that meant scary drops, followed by freight training, barreling walls. It wasn’t easy to paddle it and the few that tried didn’t last long. It was pretty much a “run for your life” scene every time a big set came through.
Fortunately for us though, we have a ski! We took turns towing into the bigger sets and everyone that wanted to grab onto the rope got some sick ones. Everyone got so tired that for the last 3 hours or so it was just me driving and only Justice and our surf guide, Anthony, out in the water and the waves could only be described as insane. Long, sick tubes, no one else out, and a jet ski to stick you into the perfect spot! It doesn’t get better than that.
Justice got one unbelievable wave after another and pretty much had a session that cannot ever be topped. Stand up barrel after another. Anthony might have gotten the wave of the day with an unbelievable slab at the end that ended with a shotgun spit that blew him off his board, which was followed by a spectacular over the falls wipeout! In the late afternoon, the tide got lower and it began to get unmakeable even with the ski, so we called it quits.
We had been out almost 9 hours, most the time with just a few Kandui crew out! We staggered onto the restaurant sunburned, exhausted, hungry, and with just enough energy left to tell our bartender, “Bintang”! Hats off to Chrissie, Justice’s girlfriend, for hanging in the hot sun and just about getting heat stroke in order to get some good video. That’s the girlfriend all you guys are dreaming about! Hell of a day.”
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