Theartbreak you survived: My best board got in-operable butt cancer (delamination on the rail at the tail).
person you admired: Rell Sunn.
time you were scared shitless: Landing in Africa after a two-day flight and realizing my passport was already full.
barrel you claimed: Big left with Keone Watson. He was on the outside, so nobody saw the claim. I’m not sure if that counts.
contest you won: Kick worm contest against T-Monkey. I own you, T-Pickle!
film you loved: Rockers by Theodoros Bafaloukos.
car you bought: A 1965 Chevelle on O’ahu.
surf session with one of your brothers: I surf with both of them everyday.
photograph you took: A photo of Takuji Masuda, his fiancà‡ Ami, and Malia Jones.
surfboard you bought: A V-Lo re-pro.
band you saw: Theodore Lennon (all the time).
argument you got in: I told a ranger I’d bulldoze his tollbooth for charging me eight bucks to surf my home break.
time you felt stupid: See above.
place you traveled to: Bodysurf mission to Japan.
book you read: Below Another Sky by Rick Ridgeway.
laugh: A story about (Joel) Tudor bringing some poor guy to tears at Cardiff because he got in the way of his soul arch. Lost love: Honestly, I miss the old days traveling with Steele,Postin, Browning, and the crew. It sucks drifting away from good friends.
time you felt scared: Kicked the shit out of a rock while doing a lap at Rincon. I thought I broke all my toes.
walk you took: I shell hunt with my old lady daily.
thing you recycled: My boxers after six days in a row camping up north.
hug you gave: Mi madre.
emotional storm: The election.
headache you felt: Two-day Budweiser hangover with Lillard at the J2.
goodbye you gave: To my soul-I got a good price, though.
order you took: I’m characteristically insubordinate.
food you ate: Hannigan’s pre-session guac fest.
barrel you got: Hobo Jungle.
bodysurf mission: Kamakura, Japan.
guilty pleasure: 400 bucks worth of old books at the Calico.
haircut you got: Self-cut for the
time you bled: Scissor cuts on my ears and neck.
time you got beat up: Mamma Mia’s with Chesser and Mags. I got some good ones in before the ass whipping ensued. Good fun.
animal you killed: A tuna sanga.
free shirt you got: Two-for-one Army surplus at the swap meet.
contest you surfed: The Eddie Aikau.