Hip Older Surfer
First things first–your magazine is first-rate. My son said to me, “Dad, you’re a surfer. You should send some info on yourself to TransWorld.” So, okay, here it is. I’m an avid surfer. I live in Sacramento, California–90 miles inland. I surf every weekend, either at Pacifica or Montora (south of San Francisco, north of Half Moon Bay). I hit the road at 5:00 a.m. and am in the water at 7:00 a.m. I can surf no longer than three hours because of the water temperature (brrrrrrrrr!). I’m 56 years old and surf all over Mexico, Costa Rica, and Hawai‘i. I’ve surfed Sunset Beach for the past four winters. Just wanted to let you know there are some hip older surfers out there.
I am a short, chubby blonde who enjoys walks on the beach, quiet nights with friends, trying to get tubed, and having my feet rubbed–but enough about me. Thanks for the letter, Patrick. Your son is lucky, because you probably take him on cool surf trips. Most kids have to go on shitty drives in the family wagon for their vacations. It’s good to hear about a happy, non-bitter older surfer. Keep up the good work, sir.–C.C.
Kalani’s Hot Bod
First off, I’d like to say that I love your magazine, and it pretty much rocks most of the time. I do, however, have one small complaint–a suggestion, you might say. I was a little disappointed with the September issue, because I went through the entire mag thoroughly, read all the articles, scanned all the pictures, as I usually do, and the only picture I found of Kalani Robb was this lame Fox ad where you can’t even see his face–or his hot body! How do I even know that’s really Kalani? Two full pages of ad, and you can’t even see my future husband clearly? All I have to say is that’s wack. I love Kalani Robb, and I’m usually pleased to see one good ad or article or at least one small picture of him, but not this time, my friends. I know you probably have no control over what picture advertisers choose to advertise, but I think that you guys should have some kind of agenda where you put a little picture of him in every issue for me–you could call it “Mandatory Kalani.” I’m sure other readers would appreciate it, too (but the ladies out there can keep their filthy mits off my man). Please consider it.
Thanks a lot,
Long Beach, California
I agree with you–Kalani has a hot body. You’re also completely correct in saying there should be more shots of him in the magazine. We did put a nice little picture of him in the competition pages of the last issue (4#9). Also, I’ll tell you a secret–we have a crazy Kalani Robb Pro Spotlight in the works. We sent Kalani all over the place to get some dazzling surf shots, so keep your eyes open, ’cause soon you’ll be feasting on some hot Kalani shots that will make you shake.–C.C.
Air Pockets And Foot Stoppers
I saw the new OAM traction pads with the air pockets in your latest issue. Do those things really work? Is it just some gimmick, like air pockets in skate shoes? Will I do bigger airs with one of those pads? Will I at least look cooler at the beach? Answer me!
I talked with OAM’s Joey Mercer (the mastermind behind the air pockets), and his take on the subject is this: “Basically, the air bubble is softer than our regular foam. It conforms to the shape of your foot’s arch and also acts as a shock absorber–similar to the air bubbles in most technical running shoes. Plus, it looks badass.”
There you go, Marc, straight from the source. –C.C.
Down With The Stiffness
I have a lot of trouble gettting loose before those early morning stretches. I live in Santa Barbara, so it’s not that cold, but I still get really damn stiff every morning. Can you recommend some stretches to help me get loosened up in the a.m.?
I, too, suffer from morning stiffness. When I wake up, I am a stiff man. I think scientists have proved morning stiffness is caused from having to go pee before you wake up. Morning stiffness or morning wood, as some call it, is a defense mechanism that prevents bed-wetting. If you can remember your childhood, you might not recall getting morning stiffness, but you may remember bed-wetting. Just be glad the morning stiffness saves you from a warm, wet bed. The only stretch that may prevent this is peeing in the middle of the night.–C.C.
We Finally Did Something Right
I just received the Interview Issue in the mail. I loved the interviews and especially Sunny Garcia’s words. He’s such a badass. I love the way he doesn’t give a rat’s ass who he disses and who he writes off. It takes a lot of balls to say that the guys at Surfer magazine are kooks. Most pros these days are too scared to say anything against anyone in the press or on tour. You guys picked the right people to interview–good job. You guys are killing it.
Thanks, Jim. I was surprised by some of the shit these guys said. It’s refreshing to see that surfing can be entertaining and controversial at the same time. I’m sure some people are pissed off at other people, but that’s great. Does anyone remember when Brad Gerlach and Martin Potter got in a fight in the early 90s? That was cool.–C.C.
Where Is Tom Curren?
A few friends and I went to the U.S. Open instead of going to work one day. When we walked up to the scaffolding, we heard the announcer saying someone’s name sounding like Tom Curren. I thought to myself, there’s no way Tom Curren is in this contest. I mean, I’m 30 years old, and when I was a grom, Tom Curren was the world champ and an idol to me and all my friends. When we got to a good seat and started watching the heat, it was Tom Curren, and he was ripping! He had the same amazing style and was surfing faster than anyone out in the water. It was so cool to see my childhood idol still ripping and winning heats. I know he didn’t win the contest, but he did win some props from me.
My brother and I used to surf-skate down the street trying to emulate Tom Curren’s perfect hand positioning. He is and always will be one of the most stylish surfers ever. It’s crazy that he can still enter a contest and kick a lot of ass–he’s old enough to be Parko’s dad. I think he made it through ten heats or something in this year’s U.S. Open. Tom is a living legend. I’d rather watch him surf than most any of the guys currently on the ’CT, solely for the memories it brings back. If you’re reading this and don’t know who Tom Curren is, do some research–you may find a new hero.–C.C.