Bless this digital age–if for nothing else than the speed with which information and imagery travel. The last two days have seen a massive early season swell light up the Hawaiian Islands, with news that Maui’s Peahi (or the reef break “Jaws”) was about as good as it gets, and almost as it happened we got Instagrams from the channel and videos uploaded within hours, showing the world what went down, nearly in real time.
The first day of the swell blew some minds, with word that big-wave surfers Shane Dorian and Albee Layer caught the waves of their lives. The following day turned out to be equally epic.
Dorian posted the above photo yesterday evening with the caption: “Feel like a kook posting this but it was a memorable ride barely an hour ago. I got super pounded and my board got destroyed on the rocks, but it was worth it! Yew what a sick swell. Thanks to the Maui crew for the aloha!! Time to order new boards…”
The two-day swell event took its toll on both the boys and their equipment. Surfer Ian Walsh, who was Dorian’s host for this spectacle, posted the second Instagram in this post showing both his and Shane’s mangled boards. “3 boards kissed by the rocks … 2 amazing sessions,” he wrote.
The following videos have surfaced from the epic two days on Maui.
The first is of Keala Kennelly on a solid one. Good candidate for best wave ever paddled by a female?
Then footage of Albee’s bomb. Had it not been for the Jet Ski wake near the channel, he could have made the longest tube in big-wave surfing history.
Massive cleanup set, you can see the last moments of Alex Gray’s yellow board in the lip of wave No. 2.
And more Dorian madness.
Makua Rothman on a big one.