Pancho Power

“For anyone who lives on the North Shore or visits there, Rocky Point offers up fun, high-performance-type waves. It’s cool because in a way, it’s kinda like a beachbreak, the way it peaks up all over the place, but having a reef bottom gives it some punch. It’s just a fun all-around wave–you can get barreled or go for airs. For me, the rights are really fun because they run along a shallow reef, so you can get a lot of speed, pick a spot up on the lip, harness all that speed, and really put your board on rail through turns. It’s a good spot for tuning into your small-wave boards and pushing your small-wave surfing. You can do really radical high-performance maneuvers because there’s good power in the wave. I like it because you can be paddling back out from the rights, catch a deep left and be back up on the point, then get another left and be down by the sandbar. It’s a full-on skatepark.”–Pancho Sullivan

What Pancho didn’t tell you about Rocky Point is that there are usually about 80 surfers out, ranging from Pancho and Roadblock (top of the food chain) to aspiring Japanese pros (middle of the food chain) and wide-eyed kids (morsels for the pack). Rockies is a very tough place to snag a decent wave.

As for the power gouge? According to Pancho’s shaper, Geoff Bushman, he is able to do these ridiculous turns not only because he weighs almost 200 pounds, but he is also very light on his feet. Attention kiddies: Do not try this maneuver until you do a million squats and pack on a hundred more pounds. Otherwise, your skinny little chicken legs will buckle, you’ll fold like a paper doll, and everybody will laugh at you.–Justin Cote