Saturday the 24th saw some of the heaviest Pipeline of the season. Waves in the 10-12 foot range were exploding over the reef with 15′ rogue set waves coming thru every hour. I lost count of how many boards were broken—over twenty at least. After a particularly hellacious unmade tube, Jesse Merle Jones, who made me go out, sold a destroyed stick to an artist for four bucks. Garrett McNamara showed why he is considered one of the most fearless surfers around when he took off on not one, but two of the biggest waves of the day, snapping the nose of his board on the first one, and finishing her off on the second—the guy is absolutely nuts.
Kaleo Roberson provided a highlight when he took off on a twelve-foot beast, only to have a Japanese surfer, who had nowhere to go, bail his board right in front of him. The two surfers were tangled up and getting pounded by waves when Kaleo realized the guy wasn’t moving or coming up. He pulled him up by his leash and the guy came to—dazed but ok. When they finally got to the beach, all the Japanese guy could say was “I think I have to pay (for Kaleo’s damaged board) and brought $100 to the Volcom house that night. At the end of the day, right after sunset, 47 year-old Michael Ho, a former Pipe Master, took off on a massive wave that was as thick as it was tall. Ho went into a pig dog stance but was unable to hold on with the cannon-like spit knocking him off at the exit. Unmade, but still the wave of the day because it was “Pops. When he got in, the entire beach started clapping and cheering for him while his little brother Derek met him on the beach with a high five. Truly an inspiring performance by one of the North Shores best surfers ever.
World #2 Kelly Slater is still on the rock. Kelly and Ross Williams went for a tow session outside of Haleiwa last week during a fifteen to twenty foot swell. When asked where they planned to surf, Kelly responded “Wherever gets in the way. Turns out some innocent fifteen footers at Avalanche “got in the way—the difference between tow surfing and paddle surfing verbalized.
Speaking of Kelly, on Sunday he was runner up to Pancho Sullivan at the $10,000 Ezekiel Faith Riding Pro at Sunset Beach. So it’s official, Pancho is the most badass surfer at Sunset in a long time—it seems like he wins every contest there. In third was Joel Centeio and fourth place went to Roy Powers.
Savage weather has been hitting Oahu lately. A tornado touched down on Sunday the 25th in Wahiawa, causing minor damage but scaring the hell out of island residents who aren’t used to that type of wild winds.
And finally, happy birthday to Kahea Hart, who celebrated his 32nd year with a bash at Indigo in Chinatown. The party was going strong until a lightning bolt hit the club and blew out the power. Talk about going out with a bang…