On Friday night, November 21, an art show titled Surf was held to benefit Hawai’ian pro surfer Jason Bogle’s fight against cancer. Hosted by Hawai’ian superstar Jun Jo and held at his store, In4mation in Honolulu, the premise of the show was surfboards painted by various modern artists from around the world. Artists such as Futura 2000, David Choe, Invisible Man, Dez Einswell, Jon Phenom, Eric Haze, and Angry Woebot donated their time and work for the projects. Shapers such as Jon Carper, Mike Woo, Jason Kashiwai, Dropout surfboards, Paul Barga, and Akila Aipa donated surfboards as well. The exhibit had a huge turnout from the local O’ahu community as well as visitors here for the winter season. From all estimates, the show was a success and all the boards will be put on silent auction via the internet .
A good friend to a lot of people, Hawaii pro surfer Jason Bogle was diagnosed with a form of cancer known as Ewing’s Sarcoma. It snuck up on him this year, and it’s in a bad stage already, requiring very expensive surgery quickly. Unfortunately he doesn’t have medical insurance, so he is reaching out to the surfing community in Hawaii and the world for help. To help, send your donations to: Jason Bogle Cancer Foundation; 919 Suset Drive; Costa Mesa, CA, 92627 .
In the water, the wind calmed down for a day and a half and the surf cleaned up enough for everybody to paddle out and rip for the cameras. On Monday, the spots were definitely Off The Wall and Rockpiles. Because of the swell direction and the way the sand has been pushed, Off The Wall resembled an overhead, sandy beachbreak and Rockpiles was a barreling wedge. Taj Burrow, Damien Hobgood, Kelly Slater, Bruce Irons, Dustin Barca, Josh Kerr. Mick Fanning, Makua Rothman, Dede Suryana, Dean Morrison, Jason Shibata, Sean Moody, and many others were ripping it pretty much from sunrise to sunset.
On Tuesday morning, the spot to be was definitely Log Cabins which looked like Backdoor and seemed to be just as heavy. All the chargers were charging including Kieren Perrow, Clint Kimmins, Daniel and Mikala Jones, Brendan Margieson, Dustin Barca, Dede Suryana, and Jairus Canon—all throwing themselves into some pretty heavy pits. By the afternoon the entire North Shore was blown out and that was that.
The first event of the Vans Triple Crown finished at Haleiwa last weekend and Victoria, Australia’s Troy Brooks came away a surprise winner. Although the waves were pretty dismal, the contest never failed to produce excitement. Highlights included Bruce Irons surfing against his brother Andy in addition to early shocker losses by both Andy and Kelly Slater. As a six star and the last competition of the World Qualifying Season, everyone trying to get on the WCT was counting on this contest to be their ticket to the big show. A lot of the surfers rated in the twenties, and even the high teens, found themselves knocked out of the running with early losses. Even Chris Ward, who right now is still on the edge of getting in. If he doesn’t, it would be a second heartbreaking year where he would find himself ousted despite great results. Brooks, was number 51 in the ratings–way beyond a longshot. But going into the final he found out he could possibly qualify if he won and now finds himself on the brink as well (depending on Sunset and Pipe results). I pulled him aside at Log Cabins to find out more about his final day–including his night. Enjoy. —Checkwoodifhecould
As the rounds went on, was it even in your head you could possibly qualify?
No, I lost first round in Brazil and I thought that was sort of the end of it. I went into this (Haleiwa) contest and went into with the attitude that it’s the last one of the year, I might as well at least have a crack at it because there was no pressure. I didn’t think I could qualify—I wasn’t nervous at all. I didn’t really think about it until II got to the final and was standing on stage and the presenter read out, “You realize if you win you can qualify. That was the first I had heard of it. It had to put a little pressure before I got in the final. I don’t know, it probably made me surf a little bit better.
Did you ever think Kelly would lose in the semis?
I had Kelly three heats in a row, we got through a couple, and in the semi he needed a 3.5—it’s pretty unlike Kelly not to get that with seven minutes to go. I was a bit lucky I think. Trent Munro didn’t need much either. I was also dropping a 4.0. So, it was a bit fickled and I was lucky enough no one else caught a wave.
Did it take a while for the shock to hit you like, “Holy shit, I just won a six-star at Haleiwa!?
Yeah, I’ve carried all the boys up the beach before and done all that. It was sort of weird sitting on their shoulders for once. It was a feeling I’ve never had before and one I’d like to get back for sure.
So what exactly happened that night?
Basically, we just went back to my house and did it the way it always is–the winner has a party their house sort of thing. I think the whole North Shore hooked up and it was a good party–everyone had fun into the early hours of the next morning.
What time did you pass out?
I don’t know I threw up like six times I think–I’m good at that.
Going into Sunset, are you holding on to any lucky charms it all works your way?
Yeah, I’m backing for Peterson (Rosa) and Neco (Padaratz) at the moment because if they qualify on the WCT I’m in. You know I’m gonna be watching with great interest. There’s not a lot I can do about it now, I just got to sit back and watch.