Surfboard Science: Short And Fat

Pinpointing new design technologies for an everyday board.

The M10 Magic Carpet model shaped by Geoff Rashe

(Sizes indicated for surfers around 145 to 150 pounds)

Size: 5’10″

Nose: 11 1/2″

Width: 18 1/2″

Thickness: 2 1/4″

(parenthesis is where arrow goes)

•(Overall) Modern small-wave board designs should be about as tall as you are. Sizes two to three inches shorter than the small-wave boards of the past fit the curvature of the wave face better.

•(On rail, two inches below center of board–right) Wider boards glide over the flat spots on a wave–what’s taken off in length is added in nose and tail width. The wide point behind the center is for looseness.

•(One foot from nose–left side) Maneuverability lost in the nose and tail width is replaced with added rocker and vee (where the rail line is slightly lower than the stringer).

•(Two feet below nose–right side) Flatter rocker for paddling and off-the-bottom projection in bottom turns.

• (Below middle–left) Single concave for front-foot acceleration from pumping.

• (On tail where front fins are–left) Double-barrel concave for back-foot acceleration.

• (Rail/tail–right side) Extra tail kick and sharp vertical edges for quick response.

• (Fins) Vector fins have a front foil and a back foil similar to an airplane wing. The front-edge foil harnesses water entry while the back foil releases water faster than a flat-sided fin. Increased control, response, and outright speed are the result.