TransWorld SURF: Dude, are okay? What happened?
Tamayo Perry: My head is pounding like a rotten grapefruit.
You got hit in the head?
I got scalped, brah. I was that close to getting medi-vac’d by helicopter outta there and having metal plates in my head. It was from someone else’s stupidity, too.
His rail just split my melon wide open, it’s the gnarliest gash ever.
Where did you get hit?
Right on top of my head, where guys go bald.
I was watching Pipe on the cam that day–it looked pretty gnarly.
Yeah, two pretty heavy days in a row.
Those early season swells are heavy, huh?
Yeah, there was so much backwash (from accumulated sand on the beach) and weird shit going on.
Were you supposed to be surfing in the Haleiwa contest?
No, I was supposed to be in the O’Neill contest at Sunset, though. But now I’m grounded for a good two to three weeks.
Yeah, I gotta keep this thing out of the water or I could get an infection and brain rot.
You don’t need that.
I’ve got over fifty stitches in my melon right now, it looks like I got raided by a pack of Indians and they left me for dead. Full scalping, it’s gnarly. Emilia (Tamayo’s wife) and her friend were in the ER with me and said they could see to the bone.
(Emilia in the background) “Speak your mind Tamayo!
Everybody had their froth on and it was one of the most crowded days I’ve ever seen Pipe. The circus is definitely in town but I was in a good rhythm, you know, playing it safe. I’d gone in and was on the beach when I saw Braden (Dias) get a sick one so I decided to go back out. I should have called it a day, but I was all gung-ho after I saw Braden’s wave.
Within five minutes of paddling back out, a twelve-foot beast pretty much cleaned everyone up. There was one guy in front of me, another guy behind me, and we were all scratching for the shoulder.
The guy in front of me was a younger kid, one of the little team kids, and I could tell he wasn’t paying attention. He was just worrying about himself. So I had to think about the guy behind me–and the jackass in front of me.
The guy in front just abandoned ship right in front of me as I tried to dip under this twelve-footer. His board got caught up by the wave and gathered speed until it hit me in the head. His rail cracked me super hard on the cranium and opened up a thirty-centimeter gash. I stuck my finger in my head and it went in like half an inch.
I was underwater just praying, “Please Lord, don’t let me go unconscious. Next thing I knew, I’m next to Kalani Robb and he sees me and goes, “Hey, what’s up?
I looked at him and went, “I’m f–ked up Kalani, give me your board, I gotta get in! He gave me his board and was like “Get in, get in!
Then, some other idiot corporate kid was right next to us and his leash was tangled with Kalani’s! He didn’t even have the common sense to take his leash off.
After that mess, I finally made it to the beach and the lifeguards did their thing and I got into an ambulance.
(Tamayo’s mom calls on the other line)
Oh my gosh, that hurt my head so bad. That call waiting beep almost killed me. Hold on a second.
I don’t think she knows about it yet. I went to the hospital about 5:30 last night and didn’t get home until 10:30pm. I’m still so delirious. My head is just throbbing.
I want to emphasize that people are pretty careless out there right now. People are being sent here (Hawaii) without any kind of etiquette. There were so many guys out there without any clue or consideration for anyone else out there. They’re not learning the ropes the right way, which is sitting in the channel and observing.
Well, we wish you a speedy recovery.
Yeah, just let people know they gotta learn the rules before they just go jump into the frying pan. They risk their own life–and, more importantly, somebody else’s. Righht now, there’s some kid with a giant hole in his board with my hair sticking out of it.