Ten Trips For Ten Surfers

Ten Trips For Ten Surfers

Who am I, and where should I go?

Surfers are like snowflakes-no two are exactly alike. In other words, one man’s paradise is another man’s purgatory. Do you want to get tubed during the day and rage at a dance club all night? Are you looking to sneak a few surfs in between consummating your new marriage? Are you bringing the brats? Think about which one of these surfers you are and choose accordingly.

The Goofy-Foot

Central Chile

Fine, so you’re not blessed as a regular-foot. Your favorite spots are La Jolla Cove and Oregon’s Seaside Point. You idolize Rob Machado and C.J. Hobgood. You gaze longingly at pictures of Raglan, Chicama, and Tamarin Bay. You flirt with the idea of surfing Pipe and Teahupo’o with Tamayo and Raimana.

But then you drop back to Earth and realize that as The Goofy-Foot, you could just make life easier by booking a flight to Santiago, Chile and continuing on via rental car or bus out to Pichilemu, a.k.a. Land of Long, Consistent Left Point Breaks. Who needs Pipeline when you’ve got Chile, an easygoing and beautiful country, uncrowded and cheap to access, with tons of surf, where your chances of dying or being punched out are much, much less?

Those swells that ignite Teahupo’o and Tavarua work wonders around Pichilemu, and it isn’t hard to figure out where and when to go to score the best and longest lefts you’ll ever surf. Low pressure systems spinning off Antarctica create the world’s most reliable supply of swell, and Chile is there to greet all of it. A Chilean flat spell? Please …

Chile is also chilly-it may be in the South Pacific, but Moorea it ain’t. You’ll need warm clothes, a good fullsuit, and booties-essential for the water temps (like So Cal winter) and the abundance of rocks at certain spots. There are several good beachbreaks, too, and Chileans have been surfing them since the 70s, starting at Ritoque. But you don’t really want to fly to Chile to surf beachbreaks, do you? Especially ones with the potential for horrid rights? Exactly.

This is South America, and knowing a little Spanish helps (cuss words don’t count), especially with the local se§oritas, who flock to the discos around Vi§a Del Mar, Chile’s tourism hub. Costs are relatively low-you can eat, drink, and be merry, stay somewhere nice and warm, rent a car for $30 a day, and comb the coast all the way down to Patagonia (no, not the clothing company).

Or you could stay away from the gas stations and the wicked pisco, hang in Pichilemu proper, walk everywhere, and focus your attention on the three famed points of Punta Lobos, Pichilemu, and Infernillo. Nearby is Puertecilio, one of South America’s best and longest left barrels, but getting there requires the tactics of Comedy Central’s Con, and we’re not going to tell you how.

Who knows? Maybe you’ll get lucky, and that nice se§orita you met at the disco will take you there. Just be sure to tell her TransWorld SURF sent you, and thank us later.-Michael Kew

Five Must-Dos

Party like a rock star in Vi§a Del Mar

Drink pisco

Mistime your paddle-out at Punta Lobos

Visit the Andes Mountains

Get leg cramps while surfing

On A Scale Of 1-5

Price-$$

Waves-_____

Party-@@@

Attitude-:):):)

Danger-!!

The Stranger

Morocco

Sick of seeing the same old boring people? Is your mundane, daily routine wearing you down? Need a kick-start to your hidden, adventurous self? If you want to be a Stranger in a strange land, Morocco is the place for you.

Though it’s only a five-hour flight from New York to Casablanca, Morocco is a world away. Scents, sights, culture, and surf like you’ve never seen await you in this North African gem of a country. The entire coastline is exposed to North Atlantic swells, but the area around Taghazoute is where the most concentrated zone of quality surf is located.

The cuisine of Morocco will be the first thing that you’ll notice is different. For the most part, McDond’s don’t litter every street corner, but fruit stands and lamb carcasses do. Don’t be scared, the street food is fifty times better for you than any fast food garbage. Many dishes are prepared in a tangine, which is sort of like a mix between a Crock-Pot and a barbecue. Fresh fruit and vegetables are cheap, bountiful, and of high quality.

Seeing a woman in a burka for the first time will clue you in to the fact that things are way different from home. Alcohol isn’t sold anywhere except hotels and a few newer supermarkets. Nearly the entire population is Muslim, which explains why five times a day prayers emanate from the local mosques (which are everywhere).

For a truly exciting and eye-opening experience, journey inland to Marrakech, an ancient, walled city several hours from the coast. The souk, an open-air market, has the best shopping in North Africa. High-quality leather products, swords, knives, live chickens, metal goods, and clothes are just a few of the cool things on offer.

As far as surfing is concerned, Morocco is untouchable. Right-hand point after right-hand point make it a regular-footer’s dream (it’s not bad for goofies, either). While the waves get big, it’s mostly soft and rippable. The only problem with surfing Morocco is knowing where to be and when to be there. This problem can be easily alleviated by staying with one of the many surf-tour-type companies in the Taghazoute region. We recommend Moroccan Surf Adventures (morocsurf.com). Skunk and Denny, two British blokes, have a beautiful, Moroccan-style townhouse near the surf and are dialed in to the local surf scene. In March of 2003, these guys hosted a TransWorld SURF trip, and we absolutely scored. While it may seem unadventurous to have guides, the idea is to feel “strange” not lost-they will save you time and money.

Five Must-Dos

Ride a camel on the beach

Take a two-day trip to Marrakech

Learn a few phrases in Arabic

Surf a 300-yard-long wave at Boilers

Drink mint tea with a Berber fisherman

Price-$$$

Waves-$$$$

Party-$

Attitude-$$$

Danger-$$

The Honeymooner

Moorea, French Polynesia

So you sealed the deal, and all your bros are telling you you’ll never surf again. They might be right, too-you’ll be with the old ball-and-chain for eternity. But before you’re condemmed to weekends at Bed Bath & Beyond, you’ve still got your honeymoon. To make the most of this possible last hurrah, say “I do” to the tropical island of Moorea, just nine miles across the Sea Of Moons from Tahiti.

Because money is no issue on your honeymoon, we recommend staying at the Sheraton Beachcomber Intercontinental or the Moorea Pearl Resort. Although not environmentally correct, go ahead and get a romantic overwater bungalow, but keep in mind, these rooms have glass floors, so watch out for “misguided snorkelers” when consummating!

Once you’ve got the wifey happy, surrender your credit card to her and go for a surf. Little does she know the reason you agreed to Moorea in the first place is because it has world-class waves! First stop, Haapiti. Although it’s a half-hour paddle out, the payoff is worth it-long, wrapping lefts with multiple barrel sections await you. Don’t fret, though, it’s not anywhere near as gnarly as Teahupo’o and the locals are friendly if you’re respectful. Try to catch a ride in from somebody with a boat, otherwise, hug the reef as you paddle in and avoid getting caught in the rip in the middle of the pass. Other spots on Moorea are more low-profile and will go unmentioned here, but trust us, there’re a couple of real gems.

After you’ve got your fill of barrels and paddling, catch up with the wife before she spends all your dough on pearls and pareos. Your trip to this part of the world isn’t complete without bringing home Tahitian black pearls. Though you may be tempted, Moorea is not the place to buy pearls. Save that for your return to Tahiti, and check out Mana. They have a great selection and are honest dealers (TahitiMana.com).

The cuisine on Moorea is out of this world. Whether it be a small roadside snack, or an upscale French/Pacific fusion joint, you can’t go wrong. A really cool thing to do is get a bottle of French wine, a baguette, and some mahi mahi pÉtà‡, and take your picnic and your bride down to the gentle waters of the protected lagoon to wet your feet. Your chick will think your god’s gift to romance, and your surfing may suffer less in the long run.

Five Must-Dos

Surf the wrapping barrels of Haapiti

Go to the Belvedere lookout for a panoramic view of the island

Spend a day at the public beach near the Sofitel

Have a picnic on a motu (small offshore island)

Snorkel in some of the clearest water in the Pacific

On a scale of 1-5

Price-$$$$$

Waves-$$$$

Party-$

Attitude-$$$$

Danger-$$

The Family Man

O’ahu, Hawai’i

Saddled with the fam on your annual two weeks of vacation? Looking for a destination that will please even the most spoiled of brats? Rejoice, for there is a place especially for you and your clan-O’ahu. A metropolitan garden surrounded by the Pacific, Hawai’i’s main island has something for everyone.

Because you’re bringing the family, you’ll most likely want to stay on the South Shore, which has a gentler ocean and more amenities. The whole point of bringing your family to O’ahu is to keep them happy and occupied so you can sneak a couple (or a couple dozen) sessions.

Take everyone down to Waikiki Beach for surf lessons from the famed “beach boys.” After the surf lessons, they’ll be ready for the big time-the North Shore. Well, not really, but they can watch as you pull in at Pipe or rip apart Ehukai. Both beaches are good for families-as long as it’s not too big. The battle-tested lifeguards will let you know if it’s dangerous, so don’t be stupid-follow their instructions.

The shoppers of the family will not go wanting on O’ahu. There are numerous malls near downtown, so hit up Ala Moana (one of the largest outdoor shopping malls in the world), the International Marketplace in downtown Waikiki (good for souvenirs), or the Kahala Mall in the upscale Kahala district.

If you’ve got any dough left, play a round of golf at the public course in Kahuku, which has dirt-cheap afternoon rates. Other courses closer to Honolulu get more expensive but are of higher quality. For just a couple bucks, you can enter Hanauma Bay, one of the best snorkeling bays in all of the islands. To get some local color (other than the sunburns you’re all probably nursing by now), take in the monthly “Sunset On The Beach,” where the city of Honolulu shows a movie on the beach, free of charge. Family history buffs will like the USS Arizona Memorial in Pearl Harbor-a sobering reminder of the cost of war.

After all of this family business, Dad’s gonna want to sneak in a few cold ones. May we recommend Femme Nu? Located in the beautiful industrial area of Honolulu, this old favorite of visiting pro surfers and surf editors has cold beer, naked women, and great dancing. Hey, you’re a family man, not a castrated zombie-you can look, just don’t touch.

Five Must-Dos

Surf the North Shore

Get the kids a surf lesson from the Waikiki beach boys

Body-whomp Sandy Beach

Hike to the end of Kaena Point

Get your picture taken with the Duke statue in Waikiki

On a scale of 1-5

Price-$$$$

Waves-$$$$

Party-$$$$

Attitude-$$$$

Danger-$$$$

The Regular-Foot

Jeffreys Bay, South Africa

There are zillions of better places to surf than in California’s summertime beachbreak slop, much of which arrives as lefts due to the prevailing south swells and the west-facing beaches, but who wants to surf a stupid left when everyone knows that rights are far superior?

Now, I’m severely biased because I live in Santa Barbara, which is Right Point World, and because I’m a regular-foot and a shameless worshipper of Tom Curren at J-Bay in those old Search vidre honest dealers (TahitiMana.com).

The cuisine on Moorea is out of this world. Whether it be a small roadside snack, or an upscale French/Pacific fusion joint, you can’t go wrong. A really cool thing to do is get a bottle of French wine, a baguette, and some mahi mahi pÉtà‡, and take your picnic and your bride down to the gentle waters of the protected lagoon to wet your feet. Your chick will think your god’s gift to romance, and your surfing may suffer less in the long run.

Five Must-Dos

Surf the wrapping barrels of Haapiti

Go to the Belvedere lookout for a panoramic view of the island

Spend a day at the public beach near the Sofitel

Have a picnic on a motu (small offshore island)

Snorkel in some of the clearest water in the Pacific

On a scale of 1-5

Price-$$$$$

Waves-$$$$

Party-$

Attitude-$$$$

Danger-$$

The Family Man

O’ahu, Hawai’i

Saddled with the fam on your annual two weeks of vacation? Looking for a destination that will please even the most spoiled of brats? Rejoice, for there is a place especially for you and your clan-O’ahu. A metropolitan garden surrounded by the Pacific, Hawai’i’s main island has something for everyone.

Because you’re bringing the family, you’ll most likely want to stay on the South Shore, which has a gentler ocean and more amenities. The whole point of bringing your family to O’ahu is to keep them happy and occupied so you can sneak a couple (or a couple dozen) sessions.

Take everyone down to Waikiki Beach for surf lessons from the famed “beach boys.” After the surf lessons, they’ll be ready for the big time-the North Shore. Well, not really, but they can watch as you pull in at Pipe or rip apart Ehukai. Both beaches are good for families-as long as it’s not too big. The battle-tested lifeguards will let you know if it’s dangerous, so don’t be stupid-follow their instructions.

The shoppers of the family will not go wanting on O’ahu. There are numerous malls near downtown, so hit up Ala Moana (one of the largest outdoor shopping malls in the world), the International Marketplace in downtown Waikiki (good for souvenirs), or the Kahala Mall in the upscale Kahala district.

If you’ve got any dough left, play a round of golf at the public course in Kahuku, which has dirt-cheap afternoon rates. Other courses closer to Honolulu get more expensive but are of higher quality. For just a couple bucks, you can enter Hanauma Bay, one of the best snorkeling bays in all of the islands. To get some local color (other than the sunburns you’re all probably nursing by now), take in the monthly “Sunset On The Beach,” where the city of Honolulu shows a movie on the beach, free of charge. Family history buffs will like the USS Arizona Memorial in Pearl Harbor-a sobering reminder of the cost of war.

After all of this family business, Dad’s gonna want to sneak in a few cold ones. May we recommend Femme Nu? Located in the beautiful industrial area of Honolulu, this old favorite of visiting pro surfers and surf editors has cold beer, naked women, and great dancing. Hey, you’re a family man, not a castrated zombie-you can look, just don’t touch.

Five Must-Dos

Surf the North Shore

Get the kids a surf lesson from the Waikiki beach boys

Body-whomp Sandy Beach

Hike to the end of Kaena Point

Get your picture taken with the Duke statue in Waikiki

On a scale of 1-5

Price-$$$$

Waves-$$$$

Party-$$$$

Attitude-$$$$

Danger-$$$$

The Regular-Foot

Jeffreys Bay, South Africa

There are zillions of better places to surf than in California’s summertime beachbreak slop, much of which arrives as lefts due to the prevailing south swells and the west-facing beaches, but who wants to surf a stupid left when everyone knows that rights are far superior?

Now, I’m severely biased because I live in Santa Barbara, which is Right Point World, and because I’m a regular-foot and a shameless worshipper of Tom Curren at J-Bay in those old Search videos, but it seems so obvious to me that God created Jeffreys Bay (mother of all right points, Rincon-on-steroids, ideally positioned to reap the most consistent fetch of swell in all of South Africa) for us regular-foots.

You’ve seen the photos and videos-now it’s time to boogie and get to Johannesburg. From there, your connecting flight will drop you at Port Elizabeth, a short and scenic drive from Jeffreys Bay. Rent a car there, drive on the left side of the road (the goofy-foot’s lane?), and haul ass to J-Bay proper, hopefully timing it just right so as you pull into town, you’ll get a live view of the lineup you’ve seen on paper and video a thousand times before. Only now you’re going to surf it, not drool over it.

You’ll be lucky to nab a prime set wave at Supers right off the bat, unless you’re buddies with Warren Dean. Otherwise, you’ll have to get in line, after negotiating the sketchy paddle-out and freezing water (think Oregon), but once you’re out there, you’re out there, and this is J-Bay, baby. Nothing else matters.

Supertubes isn’t the only game in town, though, and you can pretend you’re Mike Hynson circa 1962 at Cape St. Francis, surf with the sharks at Seal Point, or relax with the cheeky groms at Kitchens. Spots with names like Tubes and Magna Tubes are self-explanatory, and Albatross?-well, you’ll be flying high if you get this place good.

The town of Jeffreys Bay is fairly civilized, if not totally comfortable, and there are dozens of accommodation options, from campgrounds to luxury hotels. Since the South African rand lags in world value, J-Bay is cheap for us Yanks-cheap enough to consider leaving your boards at home (South African Airways is notorious for charging exorbitant board fees) and simply buying one there.

So, fellow regular-foot, if there is one right you must surf before you die, J-Bay is it. But no need to bring five of your best regular-foot brus-the locals frown on that sort of thing, and who needs frowns when, after a full day of Supers gluttony, your mug aches from smiling too much?-Michael Kew

Five Must-Dos

Get scared at the shark aquarium

Hike the Drakensberg Mountains

Get silly drunk at Breakaway Tavern

Check out a game reserve

Pull into the closeout section at Impossibles

On A Scale Of 1-5

Price-$$

Waves-_____

Party-@@

Attitude-:):):)

Danger-!!!

The Party Animal

Bali

Are you more likely to stay up late dancing than wake up early to go surfing? Is the quality of talent at the bars as important to you as the quality of the waves? Have you ever puked in the lineup after a big night of drinking? If you answered yes, congratulations, you are The Party Animal, and your next surf trip should be to Bali.

After landing at Denpasar Airport, jump in a bemo (taxi) and make the mad dash to Kuta Beach. You’ll enter the city at breakneck speed and immediately see more action than your brain will be able to process. Scooters packed with families of five, thousands of shops selling everything from carvings of Buddah to Gucci suits, and herds of people running every which way.

There’re more than enough hotels in Kuta Beach (Bali’s main beach town), so choose wisely. Touristy, high-end digs like the Hard Rock or Bali Dynasty Resort are fun, but if you want the real deal, stay in a smaller hotel like Un’s or The Kuta Beach Club near the town center, where you’ll meet scores of backpackers from around the globe.

The waves in Bali range from fun and rippable to barreling and heavy. Beachbreak spots like Changu, Kuta, and Dreamland are playgrounds for talented locals and hoards of JOJ tourists like yourself. These surf spots typically suffer from “morning sickness” (bad morning winds) but get glassier throughout the day, so waking up late is actually a good thing in Bali. Party Animals, welcome to heaven.

The barreling reef breaks off the Bukit peninsula like Padang Padang and Uluwatu challenge even the most experienced tube riders and sho