How To Do Fins Out Backside Reverses
With Timmy Reyes
Timmy Reyes is an unbelievable surfer. Much like an abstract artist, he does extraordinary moves and doesn’t waste time pondering them, nor does he try to explain-he just does it and moves ahead. He’s actually like a lot of surfers who do the textbook section of our magazine. They know they did the move, but they have no idea how-it just happened.So when a sequence needs to be demonstrated by the surfer, it’s like turning Chinese into English for the person writing it down-there has to be a translator. Take the following, for example.-A.C.
TW SURF: First of all, explain the session.Tim Reyes: It was early morning, around 6:00 a.m. down at Zuma Beach, California. Jason Reposar was shooting, I think. Anthony Petruso was out-it was a pretty fun wave with little barrels. It was freezing and there were good little waves, but I don’t know-just too cold.
Okay. Let’s start with, “You’ve just bottom-turned, and now you’re looking at the lip.” Go from there.When I was looking at the lip, I was thinking, “I want to try something different.” I went up, hit the lip, and the thing kind of … I don’t know, my fins popped out of the water. So I ended up, “Okay, let’s ride this one out.” And it ended up …
So your fins are out, right?
Your fins are out, boom! You pop ’em out, boom! Now you’re in the fourth sequence where they’re out and your nose is in the water. What are you doing to even out the weight?
I’m mostly leaning forward. Frick, I don’t know laughs. I don’t know how to explain it.
So you’re thinking, “Okay, the nose is in the water.” You’re putting your weight on your left foot, right?
Yeah, I’m putting my weight on my left foot.
You’re focusing on your left foot, and you’re trying to bring the tail back around …So when I’m going backward, I’m leaning more forward.
Okay. In shots five and six, your fins are out-the lip’s going down, and you’re coming down with it.Yep.
Nice. Now your tail’s back there. What are you doing to ride it out?
Umm … laughs.
Come on, man. So your weight’s on your back foot …My weight was on my back foot, but now I’ve switched to my front foot.
So now your essentially riding backward and …Airdropping.
Keeping your balance as much as you can.Yep.
It’s so you can turn the board and spin it around, right?
Yep, but mostly it ended up being a little airdrop, too. I was leaning more forward through the whole thing, and the white water ended up pushing me around-it was pretty quick. It was more like a hit and then I was in the air for a second. You know, you have to lean forward when you’re backward. The wave ended up throwing me around really quick after the little airdrop backward. It was pretty cool-unexpected. One of those turns.