From: scott_smith
A few days after Oahu's 19-year-old John John Florence won Hawaii's Triple Crown of Surfing, he took a moment to reflect upon being the youngest surfer in history to earn this coveted title. John John talks us through what it means to win in front of family and friends and, most of all, in his own backyard.
Consider two representations of two very big waves, below. The first is a photograph of Mike Parsons at Cortes Bank. The second is a video of Garrett McNamara near Nazare, Portugal. Now take out some measuring tape and make the distance of one foot between your hands. That's the amount, according to the Billabong XXL committee, that McNamara's wave is bigger than Parsons's wave.