As reported on worldprosurfers.com
Well, don’t know where to start, but basically hadn’t had good waves in a while and was amping to get barrelled. So, during our break, was looking on the map for the best place to get that fix.
Tahiti looked like the best bet so was going there for 3 days then coming back home. The second day I was there was just what I was looking for – 6-8 feet nowind and perfect swell direction.
Got out in the water at about 7am and was planning on surfing all day. It came to about 3pm and took off on this stupid wave and broke my board and got washed in to the lagoon so was pretty mad at my self. Came back out pretty bummed at myself and then ended up doing something even dumber …
Read entire article worldprosurfers.com here