I’m so fu–kin bummed I missed the “Swell Of The Decade at Swamis again. It’s happened far too many times the last couple of years. You see, I grew up two miles from Swamis and still consider my first surf there via the city bus fondly (except for when that guy who put his hands on me).
I Love Swamis. The crowd, the burgers, the logs, the idiots, the groms, the bros….I really can’t get enough of “Mommies.
But after reading this article, I’m glad I spent a couple extra days over here on the North Shore of Oahu. I jogged the beach, hung out with good friends, and surfed 4-foot Pipe with just a few Aussie spongers.
Long Live The Yearly Swell Of The Decade!
Click here for terrifying stories and sheer bravado… signonsandiego.com