Last Words Chris Malloy

Theartbreak you survived: My best board got in-operable butt cancer (delamination on the rail at the tail).

person you admired: Rell Sunn.

time you were scared shitless: Landing in Africa after a two-day flight and realizing my passport was already full.

barrel you claimed: Big left with Keone Watson. He was on the outside, so nobody saw the claim. I’m not sure if that counts.

contest you won: Kick worm contest against T-Monkey. I own you, T-Pickle!

film you loved: Rockers by Theodoros Bafaloukos.

car you bought: A 1965 Chevelle on O’ahu.

surf session with one of your brothers: I surf with both of them everyday.

photograph you took: A photo of Takuji Masuda, his fiancà‡ Ami, and Malia Jones.

surfboard you bought: A V-Lo re-pro.

band you saw: Theodore Lennon (all the time).

argument you got in: I told a ranger I’d bulldoze his tollbooth for charging me eight bucks to surf my home break.

time you felt stupid: See above.

place you traveled to: Bodysurf mission to Japan.

book you read: Below Another Sky by Rick Ridgeway.

laugh: A story about (Joel) Tudor bringing some poor guy to tears at Cardiff because he got in the way of his soul arch. Lost love: Honestly, I miss the old days traveling with Steele,Postin, Browning, and the crew. It sucks drifting away from good friends.

time you felt scared: Kicked the shit out of a rock while doing a lap at Rincon. I thought I broke all my toes.

walk you took: I shell hunt with my old lady daily.

thing you recycled: My boxers after six days in a row camping up north.

hug you gave: Mi madre.

emotional storm: The election.

headache you felt: Two-day Budweiser hangover with Lillard at the J2.

goodbye you gave: To my soul-I got a good price, though.

order you took: I’m characteristically insubordinate.

food you ate: Hannigan’s pre-session guac fest.

barrel you got: Hobo Jungle.

bodysurf mission: Kamakura, Japan.

guilty pleasure: 400 bucks worth of old books at the Calico.

haircut you got: Self-cut for the


time you bled: Scissor cuts on my ears and neck.

time you got beat up: Mamma Mia’s with Chesser and Mags. I got some good ones in before the ass whipping ensued. Good fun.

animal you killed: A tuna sanga.

free shirt you got: Two-for-one Army surplus at the swap meet.

contest you surfed: The Eddie Aikau.