Motion Pictures 4.3

These shots were taken on an overcast, medium to small-sized day as Sandspit, and after shooting a few pathetic frames, I almost went home. Then this wave came through. While it’s only a medium-sized wave, what remains so amazing about this sequence is not only two barrels by two guys on the same wave, but more importantly who the two surfers are. The first in the sequence is Aaron Ernst, one of Santa Barbara’s best surfers whose style has been heavily influenced by Tom Curren. The second surfer in the sequence is Josh Bradbury, easily the most graceful surfer in town who has also been influenced by Tom as well as Josh’s father, the late John Bradbury. Since Tom and Chris (Brown) have become more removed from the local scene, Aaron and Josh have absolutely run the show at Sandspit for years. Almost without exception, one of these two will get the wave of the day at Sandspit, a localized spot that really only breaks (big) maybe six times a year. Despite the fact that these two were both born and raised in Santa Barbara and remain close friends, there is always hectic competition for that one epic wave. I’ve shot a lot of images from Sandspit during the last decade. Capturing these two getting shacked on one wave is pretty amazing.

TransWorld SURFVolume 4 number 3File: Motion PicturesTwo men sharing fun. Two tubes by two men on one wave. Two plus two equals four, divide four by two, you get two. But one, one is the loneliest number that you ever knew. Aaron Ernst goes in, Josh Bradbury comes out. Page 2. …And in the end, the waves you snake, are equal to the waves, you make.Photo: John Nordstrand