Pineapple Express 11/30


Super ceding any world title drama, thirteen-year old Kauai surfer Bethany Hamilton is back in the water. According to reports from the Garden Isle, Bethany was surfing Rock Quarry on Kauai’s North Shore, the day before Thanksgiving, which was a day before her self proclaimed return and less than a month after being attacked by a tiger shark estimated to be fifteen feet long. Losing her left arm in the attack, her return to the surf is a testament to Bethany’s spirit and toughness—she’s absolutely fearless.

On Friday, Bethany presented the trophies to the Rip Curl Pro Trialists. In first place was Joel Centeio, who navigated the 12-foot north swell lineup like a champ. In second was Tahiti’s Manoa Drollett, third was Sean Moody, and fourth place went to Love Hodel. All four finalists will surf in the main event versus the WCT top 44.

On Saturday night, a fundraiser event hosted by the North Shore Lifeguard Association and Rip Curl was held in Bethany’s name at Waimea Falls Park. Pretty much everyone on the North Shore showed up to support Bethany as well as bid on auction items such as Michael Ho’s 1980 Duke Kahanamoku trophy and surfboards donated from the world’s best surfers. From the look of things, the night came out a total success.


Weather wise, it rained, no, it poured pretty much all day Saturday. There were mini floods all over the island and the water now has a brownish tint to it. The waves have dropped as well, but is still relatively clean.

On a personal note, my friend Benji Gilholm is coming to pick me up so we can go surf an outer reef. Having never surfed beyond the near shore I’m a bit nervous. More than a bit nervous actually. Stay tuned for a breakdown of shitting my trunks and paddling across the creepy Haleiwa channel…